10 years ago, I published my first wefting and wig-making tutorial on cosplay.com! It’s still one of my most popular tutorials that you can use for many different kinds of projects.

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Take the folded weft back to the sewing machine and stitch another line to sew the layers together. Stitch alongside 3–4 mm (1/8–3/16″) from the fold (i.e. the edge of your weft), either right on top of the existing seams or a little bit left of them. Remove the pins as you go! Sewing right over a pin will result in a little gap in the hair.

Your weft is as good as done now! To make sure it’s durable and can be brushed later, I recommend that you stitch another line or two just to be safe. Place the stitching line close to the edge.

Pull on the hair to check if it’s properly fixed. If you can still pull out a hair, stitch another line between the visible seams. In total, you should have fixed the hair with four to five rows of stitches.

You do not need the excess tulle anymore. Cut off the ends with the thread ends, brushing the hair to the side so you don’t cut into it. Trim the tulle on both sides of the weft, as close to the seam as possible. I’m using fabric scissors with a rounded tip that slides easily between the layers without cutting into the hair.

Long wefts will need to be detangled before use. Hang them on a laundry line or pin them to a styrofoam head (the head must be fixed on a wig stand or tripod to keep it from tipping). Detangle the fiber with a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush. Damaged and kinky fibers can be straightened with hot water or a blow dryer.

I have an in-depth wig detangling tutorial in my book, Wigs 101!

Short wefts are easy to detangle by brushing them with your fingers once. Uneven ends can be trimmed with scissors. To store the weft, fold it at the seam and tie it off with ribbons or cut-open elastic hairties to keep them from tangling. Roll them up and put them in a ziploc plastic bag.

After sewing wefts, you should definitely clean your sewing machine to remove thread dust and possible hair residue from the bobbin compartment. With the machine running at full speed, it will have collected a lot of muck, and plastic wig fiber has absolutely no business clogging up the works.

Variant: Long Wefts

In this tutorial, I’ve folded hair in half to sew a 30cm (12″) short weft. Of course you’re free to sew longer wefts than that! Double up 120cm long extensions and you’ll get a beautifully thick, 60cm long weft.

And there’s no need to always fold the hair exactly in half. You can move the fold towards one end if you want to sew even longer wefts. Just make sure that the hair extends over the edge of the tulle by 5–10cm (2–4″) on the shorter end so you’ll still be able to fold and sew it properly. When you sew the weft into your wig or hairpiece later, the shorter ends should lie flat against the head (facing the wig undermesh) so they don’t stick out of the hairdo. When you take a closer look at wefts in a store-bought wig, you’ll see that they often have shorter baby hair on the underside as well.

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Once you’ve mastered the wefting technique, your creative options are endless! You’re free to create wefts in any color and length you want. With a little practice, you’ll be able to sew neat, even wefts with a narrow seam. With these wefts, you can thicken up a wig that’s too thin, create hair extensions or spice up your wig with colorful highlights and tips.